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A guide to modern cookery by A. Escoffier
Escoffier, A. (Auguste), 1846-1935
Chapter 23: CHAPTER XX
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Chapters
Chapter 1
Chapter 1
Chapter 2
PART I
Chapter 3
CHAPTER I PAGE
Chapter 4
CHAPTER II
Chapter 5
CHAPTER III
Chapter 6
CHAPTER IV
Chapter 7
CHAPTER V
Chapter 8
CHAPTER VI
Chapter 9
CHAPTER VII
Chapter 10
CHAPTER VIII
Chapter 11
CHAPTER IX
Chapter 12
CHAPTER X
Chapter 13
PART II
Chapter 14
CHAPTER XI PAGE
Chapter 15
CHAPTER XII
Chapter 16
CHAPTER XIII
Chapter 17
CHAPTER XIV
Chapter 18
CHAPTER XV
Chapter 19
CHAPTER XVI
Chapter 20
CHAPTER XVII
Chapter 21
CHAPTER XVIII
Chapter 22
CHAPTER XIX
Chapter 23
CHAPTER XX
Chapter 24
CHAPTER XXI
Chapter 25
CHAPTER XXII
Chapter 26
CHAPTER XXIII
Chapter 27
PART I
Chapter 28
CHAPTER I
Chapter 29
2. The brown stock or “_estouffade_,” game stocks, the bases of
Chapter 30
5. The various essences of poultry, game, fish, &c., the complements
Chapter 31
7. The basic sauces: Espagnole, Velouté, Béchamel, Tomato, and
Chapter 32
8. The savoury jellies or aspics of old-fashioned cooking.
Chapter 33
6. The various garnishes for soups, for relevés, for entrées, &c.
Chapter 34
CHAPTER II
Chapter 35
2. Be scrupulously careful of the roux, however it may be made. By
Chapter 36
CHAPTER III
Chapter 37
1. After having strained the braising sauce, completely remove its
Chapter 38
2. Strain the poëling stock, for ducklings or wild ducks, through
Chapter 39
1. Heat two oz. of butter in a stewpan, and insert one lb. of raw
Chapter 40
2. Pass the sauce through a strainer, pressing the aromatics; add a
Chapter 41
2. Substitute white fish jelly for poultry jelly.
Chapter 42
1. The Soubise is rather a cullis than a sauce; _i.e._, its consistence
Chapter 43
2. The admixture of Béchamel in Soubise is preferable to that of rice,
Chapter 44
3. In accordance with the uses to which it may be put, the Soubise
Chapter 45
2. The Villeroy Tomatée may be finally seasoned with curry or paprika,
Chapter 46
1. Add one-quarter pint of fish _fumet_ to one pint of thickened
Chapter 47
2. Almost entirely reduce one-quarter pint of fish _fumet_. To this
Chapter 48
3. Put the yolks of five eggs into a small stewpan and mix them with
Chapter 49
CHAPTER IV
Chapter 50
1. If the sauce forms badly, or not at all, the reason is that the
Chapter 51
2. It is quite an error to suppose that it is necessary to work over
Chapter 52
3. It is a further error to suppose that the seasoning interferes with
Chapter 53
3. Excess of oil in proportion to the number of yolks, the
Chapter 54
CHAPTER V
Chapter 55
2. That it be only added to the aspic when the latter is already
Chapter 56
CHAPTER VI
Chapter 57
3. To apportion the wine and water in the ratio of two-thirds
Chapter 58
1. _Court-bouillon_ must always be prepared in advance for all fish,
Chapter 59
2. When a fish is of such a size as to need more than half an
Chapter 60
3. Fish, when whole, should be immersed in cold _court-bouillon_; when
Chapter 61
4. If fish be cooked in short liquor the aromatics are put under the
Chapter 62
5. _Court-bouillon_ for ordinary and spiny lobsters should always be at
Chapter 63
6. Fish which is to be served cold, also shell-fish, should cool in the
Chapter 64
CHAPTER VII
Chapter 65
2. _Acid seasonings._—Plain vinegar, or the same aromatised with
Chapter 66
3. _Hot seasonings._—Peppercorns, ground or _concassed_ pepper, or
Chapter 67
4. _Saccharine seasonings._—Sugar and honey.
Chapter 68
2. _Hot condiments._—Mustard, gherkins, capers, English sauces, such
Chapter 69
3. _Fatty substances._—Most animal fats, butter, vegetable greases
Chapter 70
1. The quantity of spiced salt varies, a few grammes either way,
Chapter 71
2. According to the purpose of the forcemeat, and with a view to
Chapter 72
3. As a rule, forcemeat should always be rubbed through a sieve so as
Chapter 73
4. Whether the foie gras be added or not, chicken forcemeat may always
Chapter 74
1. _To roll quenelles_ it is necessary to keep the forcemeat somewhat
Chapter 75
2. _To Mould Quenelles with a Spoon._—This method may be applied to all
Chapter 76
3. _To Form Quenelles with a Piping-bag._—This process is especially
Chapter 77
4. _To Mould Forcemeat with the Fingers._—This excellent process is
Chapter 78
CHAPTER VIII
Chapter 79
CHAPTER IX
Chapter 80
CHAPTER X
Chapter 81
introduction into the vocabulary of cookery is comparatively recent,
Chapter 82
1. In all circumstances, _i.e._, whatever be the nature of the soup,
Chapter 83
2. The correct consistence of the soup is got by means of milk
Chapter 84
4. They are not buttered, but they are finished with one-fifth or
Chapter 85
1. If the liquor is required to be clear it need only be strained, over
Chapter 86
2. If, on the contrary, a sauce be required, the liquor should
Chapter 87
1. Too violent evaporation, which would reduce the liquor and disturb
Chapter 88
2. The running of a considerable risk of bursting the piece of poultry,
Chapter 89
1. All red meats containing a large quantity of juice should be
Chapter 90
2. In the case of white meats, whose cooking should be thorough, the
Chapter 91
3. With small game the fuel should be wood, but whatever fuel be used
Chapter 92
1. If the objects in question are _panés à l’anglaise_, _i.e._, dipped
Chapter 93
2. The same holds with objects treated with batter. Hence the absolute
Chapter 94
1. If too much sauce were used in proportion to the size of the object,
Chapter 95
2. If the sauce used were insufficient, it would be reduced before the
Chapter 96
3. The larger the piece, and consequently the longer it takes to cook,
Chapter 97
3. The blanching of certain other vegetables, which in reality
Chapter 98
PART II
Chapter 99
CHAPTER XI
Chapter 100
CHAPTER XII
Chapter 101
CHAPTER XIII
Chapter 102
2. Thick soups, which comprise the Purées, Veloutés, and Creams.
Chapter 103
3. Of a purée of asparagus-tops combined with a few cooked spinach
Chapter 104
4. Of a carrot purée (Purée Crécy).
Chapter 105
2. Cut six rectangles out of lettuce leaves; spread a thin layer of
Chapter 106
3. Prepare two tablespoonfuls of a coarse _julienne_ of carrots and
Chapter 107
1. Make a broth of the flesh of turtle alone, and then add a very
Chapter 108
2. Make an ordinary broth of shin of beef, using the same quantity
Chapter 109
2. The flavour which typifies them should be at once decided and yet
Chapter 110
3. When the flavour is imparted by a wine, the latter should be of the
Chapter 111
4. Supper consommés never contain any garnish.
Chapter 112
2. The velouté d’éperlans should, like almost all fish veloutés, be
Chapter 113
3. For this soup I elected to use a panada as the thickening element,
Chapter 114
CHAPTER XIV
Chapter 115
1. +Crayfish Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with crayfish tails
Chapter 116
2. +Lobster Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with slices of
Chapter 117
3. +Shrimp Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with crayfish tails
Chapter 118
4. +Capsicum Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with strips of
Chapter 119
5. +Physalia Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with chervil,
Chapter 120
6. +Green Pimentos Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with strips of
Chapter 121
7. +Early-season Herb Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with
Chapter 122
8. +Volnay Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with anchovy fillets,
Chapter 123
9. +Chambertin Mousse+ with fillets of trout decked like No. 8.
Chapter 124
1. Put a preparation of Duchesse potatoes in a piping-bag fitted with
Chapter 125
2. Bake some large potatoes in the oven. Open them; remove their pulp,
Chapter 126
2. A garnish consisting of twelve rolled or folded fillets of sole
Chapter 127
1. For a mould capable of holding one quart, fold twelve small fillets
Chapter 128
1. A hot ravigote sauce combined with the gravy of the lobster, from
Chapter 129
2. Strain the contents of the dripping-pan (cleared of all grease)
Chapter 130
CHAPTER XV
Chapter 131
2. At either end a nice heap of potatoes, shaped like long olives, and
Chapter 132
1. With a preparation of sweet potatoes, made after the manner of
Chapter 133
2. Cut some chow-chows in thick slices, _paysanne fashion_; parboil
Chapter 134
1. About one-quarter lb. of carrots turned to the shape of elongated
Chapter 135
3. The calf’s feet cut into small, square, or rectangular pieces.
Chapter 136
2. VEAL.
Chapter 137
CHAPTER XVI
Chapter 138
1. The various pheasants, grey and red partridges, the Tetras
Chapter 139
10. The ortolans.
Chapter 140
CHAPTER XVII
Chapter 141
1. _Oil seasoning_ may be applied to all salads, and is made up of
Chapter 142
2. _Cream seasoning_ is particularly well suited to salads of
Chapter 143
3. _Egg seasoning_ is prepared from crushed hard-boiled yolks of egg,
Chapter 144
4. _Bacon seasoning_ is used especially for dandelion, red-cabbage,
Chapter 145
5. _Mustard with cream seasoning_ is used particularly with beetroot
Chapter 146
CHAPTER XVIII
Chapter 147
2. The green, Parisian asparagus, which is very small, and of which the
Chapter 148
4. English asparagus, which is somewhat delicate in quality, but
Chapter 149
2. Flemish chicory, which is genuine endive in its primitive state,
Chapter 150
3. Brussels chicory, or the Belgian kind; obtained from cultivating the
Chapter 151
2. Red cabbages: used as a vegetable, as a hors-d’œuvre, or as a
Chapter 152
3. Round-headed or Savoy cabbages: specially suited to braising and the
Chapter 153
4. Scotch kale and spring cabbages: always prepared in the English
Chapter 154
5. Cauliflowers and broccoli: the flower of these is most commonly
Chapter 155
7. Kohlrabi: the roots of these may be dished as turnips, and the
Chapter 156
CHAPTER XIX
Chapter 157
1. The simplest way is to cover the pieces of toast with a thick layer
Chapter 158
2. The original method consists in melting the dice or slices of cheese
Chapter 159
CHAPTER XX
Chapter 160
1. Extract the butter-milk, which is always present in more or less
Chapter 161
2. Make it sufficiently soft to mix with the various ingredients of
Chapter 162
3. For the quantities given (No. 2373), eight oz. of fresh Gruyère, cut
Chapter 163
4. Surprise omelets.
Chapter 164
CHAPTER XXI
Chapter 165
CHAPTER XXII
Chapter 166
CHAPTER XXIII
Chapter 23: CHAPTER XX
ENTREMETS (SWEETS) 687
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